Africa

Flew out of Chicago and spent the 20th going to sites in London. Usual tourist places: Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Tower of London, Tower Bridge, Parliament Building with Big Ben.  Off to Dar Es Salaam.

Arrived here after a second overnight flight.  Got a taxi to Uplands Center where I have a room for 2 nights.  Was able to check in when I got there at 8:30 am.  Motel was way out of the city, OK for my 2 days of rest and organizing for Tanzania.  

Second day in Dar Es Salaam, problem with visa, will work it out but have to pay a lot.  Other errands and to National Museum. 

Made it to Ethiopia and met Michele here. I like Addis Ababa way better than Dar.  Spent 4 days before the trip in Addis.  Museums, markets and natural hot baths.  Fun city.

Met the group for the trip.  Guides Stan (TL) and Jane, Manu-video/gear, Michael (local guide) and the participants, Yaru from Poland now living in Canada, Edgar and Claire from England, and 2 guys, brothers, Tony (from Saipan) and Paul (Anchorage) and their friend John from San Fran.

Amazing 20 day river trip, the longest I have ever done (Mileage), 462 miles. Two day drive to the river, launching on October 29.  Immediately started seeing hippos, baboons and monkeys.  Tons of varieties of birds throughout the trip. The first 10 days we did about 125 miles through beautiful canyons.  A fair amount of Class II-III rapids.  One class IV called Double Trouble. Beautiful side hikes, one hot springs, waterfalls, etc.  Yaru did only the first half, then Michael took his place at the resupply for the second half, as Michael a native of the Hamer tribe could speak to the tribes on the second half.

Day ten resupply then we passed a future dam site, then into some more beautiful canyons.  Less rapids but 2 Class IV-ish, Potomus Plunge and the Bronx.  At one camp Michele and I hiked up before dinner and found this beautiful pool with a 12 foot waterfall slide into it.  I couldn't slide with my arm, but Michele tried it out.  We reported back to the group and the next morning everyone went up to swim and slide.  The next day we found a great hot springs creek and soaked in it for a while,  then we quickly came out of the canyons.

In the 12 days after resupply we covered 337 miles.  Out of the canyons the river got flat and we began to see the tribes.  It started with the Bodi tribe, stopping and negotiating for pictures and some items.  Pretty cool stops.  The third tribe, the Mursi's had a reputation of being aggressive.  They were quite photogenic with the women wearing lip plates.  At one stop Stan went to pay the chief for the photos we took and a tribal lady stole a bill as he was handing it to the chief.  She took off running so Stan chased her.  Immediately some of the guys in the tribe started chasing Stan with their machetes!  So he let her go.

The most intense stop was a simple lunch stop.  Sound local Mursi's came by and seemed pretty cool.  We took pictures and paid them the 2-3 birr (Ethiopian currency pronounced beer) they usually wanted. As we went to leave, they grabbed our boats and demanded we pay 300 birr for eating on their land.  It almost got into a fight and Michael finally got the last boat away loosing his sandals (they stole).

Other tribes were the Bomes, amazing piles of beads; and the Bechas and the Bouquges.  These are true tribes, still choosing to live this primitive.  Even though they will use their few birr income to walk two days to a market trading goats or corn for birr to buy other supplies, they live here on the Omo continuing their tribal lifestyle.

We had long days, with the last one 68 kilometers to the take out.  We drove to Arba Minch where we had showers and dinner at a hotel, then flew back to Addis.

Didn't get my cast off as it is healing slow so no row trips yet.  More pictures on the photo page.

Zambia/Zimbabwe

In Zambia.  Couple days to settle in then to Zimbabwe. Good wildlife on simple stroll down a road.  Went to Victoria Falls.  Incredible!  Back to Zambia for my first Zambezi trip.  Eric and Chris have arrived.  Started big by swimming Rapid #1 (Boiling Pot).  All was fine having fun with the swim when the safety kayaker tried to help by paddling to me in heavy current, but instead slammed me in the face.  Two chipped teeth (front two) and busted limp.  Needless to say I went on.  First real big one #4 (Morning Glory) we flipped near the top, kinda intense swim.  Rapid 5 (Stairway to Heaven) is huge, no problems.  #7 is big and technical.  We took the easy route at #8 after the folks not wanting to swim after the flip.  #9 is Commercial Suicide which is portaged. Some do half day trips which is after #10.  Eric and I continued on for the second half.  #11 is big.  Eric guided (very well) #'s 12-A,B,C, 13 & 14.  #15 we almost went into a nasty pour-over (the Washing Machine).  #18 (Oblivion) is real big, almost flipped and our guide swam.  Anyway, it met my expectations as a world class run.  Back and did it the next day with Michele and Eric.  Almost flipped in #1, ran a different route in #4, better. #5 BIG, watched raft behind us dump, then the next one flip.  7 exciting again, then this time went big for the Muncher in #8.  5 of swam including Chris, Michele and myself.  I went out at the half day as there wasn't enough space (we worked out a great deal, but space limited).  Chris and Michele went on.  The 4 of us headed to Botswana for two days.  It was amazing.  The highlights of this safari in Chobe National Park were: Seeing 3 lions climbing on a dead tree just a few feet away, then come out and lay down in the sand right  next to us.  Elephants walking through our camp.  Watching a herd of zebras start to run from our jeep, then wildebeests chasing them back towards the jeep; watching a monitor lizard steal a catfish from a group of fish eagles and hearing their reactions; seeing 25 different land animals including: giraffe, buffalo, leopard, hyena, 7 types of antelope, monkeys and baboons; and hearing the sounds of the jungle from a tent in the middle of the jungle at night.  Back in Livingstone right now.

Did another Zambezi trip, lots of flps on this river.  Our boat flipped in #7, the worst one to flip in.  I swallowed a lot of water.  Still intense but fun after 3 trips.

Just back from a nice weekend in the country of Namibia with Chris and Eric.  Clean, no beggars, modern (for Africa) in the town of Katima Bulilo.

Finished Zambia with an awesome 3-day trip on the Zambezi.  Started with a flip in Number 1.  Then we walked up and swam across current to get to the absolute base of Victoria Falls.  Incredible place very few get to go.  Great first day, crazy high-siding in number 7, but stayed upright (thank God).  Camped at #10, great spot, big rum night. 

Day 2 we flipped again, this time with full gear, in Mother Rapid.  Ventured into new territory past number 23.  Scouted one big one, open Season, our guide Kevias smoothed it.  Camped at an beautiful camp at Narrows 2.  Day 3 a couple small/medium rapids, then nearly flipped above a Class V, as we were heading to scout Chimaumba Falls.  Luckily us guides knew how to high side.  The final big one was a fairly easy run over the huge Upper Maumba Falls with serious consequences.  Eric, Carmen and I chose not to run, as Kevias smoothed it with Michele and Chris paddling.  We had a look at the unrunnable Maumba Falls, just below the take-out.  We barely got home as the run was intensely muddy and we had to push the big truck out a few times.

Had the group trip on Dec 9th, we took our own raft!  R-8/Chris Erb, Bob Pugh, plus his daughter and her fiancé, Eric and Carman, Michele and I.  Still being in a cast I had others guide but I directed.  It worked great! Chris (on the second try) had an awesome move out of the starting eddy (the other boat flipped).  Below #3, most got out to swim (on Michele's lead) in a non swimming rapid.  Our boat with Chris and I flipped in a stupid hole in 3 1/2. Only swims of the day.  Chris did great in #4, Morning Glory, Michele nice in the huge Stairway to Heaven #5, and the most technical #7, Gulliver's Travels was done smoothly by Eric.  All in all our American boat styled on the Slambezi, it was awesome!! 

Before this I did my fourth Zambezi trip and finally my first without swimming.  Got the fifth of the big five, we did a walking safari and saw the white rhino.  Also a wild booze cruise to welcome Bob Pugh to Zambia.  Stories of him to tell later.  Cool walk to Livingstone Island, in the middle of Victoria Falls.  Hanging out over the falls!  Another trip into Zimbabwe, and went to a great national awards show (like our Emmy's, Oscar's and Grammy's combined).  Sunday is our group trip and our first one without a guide.  Should be interesting.

Uganda

Arrived at 1 am and decided to catch a raft trip the next morning.  Carmen went along as well, Eric did not arrive in Uganda.  I ended up going in the safety boat with my arm, Carmen in a custy boat.  Impressive river, not as intense swims so more go for flips.  A couple cool waterfall drops, Bujigali Falls and Overtime.  I had to move into Carmen's raft for the biggest rapid, Silverback, as it is a crap shoot and the oar boat could have flipped as easily.  I high sided forward which might have helped us stay upright.  The other commercial boat flipped.  Only 2 flips today, none for me or Carmen.

Came back the next day, Eric's eye was hurting so he didn't go.  I rode in Jane's boat, the guide from the Omo trip, Carmen in another.  A rapid called 50/50 because of 50% chance of flipping, got all three boats.  In Silverback, Carmen's raft flipped in the 1st of 4 huge waves.  Our boat made it though the 4 waves and as we celebrated we flipped in the 7th.   The waterfall at Overtime was great, no flips.  Another rapid, Booboogo, Carmen's and my boat flipped.  Carmen's won the flip contest with their 4th in the last rapid, Itanda.  The 3 flips may be the most I've ever had in a day, at least in bigger than a shredder.

The 3 of us did a nice safari to Murchison Falls.  Lots of buffalo and cool seeing baby giraffes.  We saw 12 lions (3 female adults and 9 cubs).  Also boat ride to the falls, supposed to be the most powerful falls in teh world because 80,000 cfs drops 150 feet and goes through a 20 foot wide slot.

And, the cast is off!! Really hurts so some rehab time, but x-rays are good and I'm free!!

Back to Jinja for a day in Uganda, then flew to Tanzania to meet back up with Chris.  The arm is not healing right, but life goes on, I'll get it checked in South Africa.

Kenya

Chris and I spent Christmas Day in Moshi, Tanzania, had a nice Italian dinner.  The next day we headed to Sagana, Kenya to look for a rafting company on the Tana River.

The Tana was total opposite of the Nile and Zambezi, steep and real technical.  We R-3ed with a guide, but I got to drive the boat, first time since the break.  Really fun day.

We headed to Nairobi the next day, the day after elections.  All was OK but there were tensions about the elections.  The next day we headed back to Arusha, Tanzania and we heard of the riots starting in Nairobi, out just in time.

Tanzania

A day in Arusha, then the lady I am dating flew in for the next part, Kili and safari.

Kili started with Suzi turning around with a sore throat (they said don't go above 9000 feet with a sore throat).  Day 2 was tough for me, then on day 3, Chris got some altitude sickness, so it was me and my guide Hururi to go to the top.

Summit day was day 5, leaving at midnight and a grueling 6 hours to the summit which we hit perfect at sunrise.  It was extremely gratifying, but the hardest thing I've ever done.  After a Buckeye cheer (this was January 7, the day Ohio State, my college, went for the national championship), which was to no avail, I descended which was as hard now as the ascent.  But I made it!

Next was a safari to Ngorongoro Crater NP, which we saw lions and a black rhino to name a couple.  Beautiful accommodations here with Suzi (and Chris).  A nice cultural day and more safari.  Great view of a male lion, also hundreds of elephants.

Then a nice couple of days in Zanzibar with Suzi and Chris, celebrating Suzi's birthday, then I was off to Capetown.

South Africa

 My luggage was lost so for now I am living in the same clothes I traveled in.  Couldn't get an appointment for my arm until Monday, so I'll do tourist things until then.  Had to cancel my Orange River trip though.  Cape town is pretty nice though.

Enjoying Cape town without bags or photos.  Cape of Good Hope, great hikes and beautiful beaches.  Hiked to top of Lion's Head which overlooks Cape town.

Found out my arm is pretty messed up and I need surgery, so got an appointment in Asheville in 3 days, and cut my trip short by 6 days.  Last day here hiked to the top of Table Mountain.  My photos were retrieved and when I got to the airport for my departure my suitcase was found.

Its been an amazing trip, 97 days (cut short of 100+) and heading home.